Archive for the 'Goldfish' Category

Nov 24 2007

The Myth of Goldfish Bowls

Published by Jill Florio under Goldfish

How to REALLY keep your goldfish happy!

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All too often, we see this little sight on the cover of a package for a “bowl kit” at a pet store or in the bedroom of a child: a small goldfish, or group of goldfish, swimming around in circles in a little gallon or half gallon bowl. Many of us who have never kept fish before assume that the fish is fine and will live out its full life in this container… maybe a bit cramped as far as living space goes, but otherwise a healthy environment for a fish at a good price for the owner.

However, ask any experienced breeder of goldfish or expert on the species, and you will hear a vastly different story. You may be surprised that ALL goldfish (including the fancy varieties) will grow to a minimum of half a foot long (with comet and “common” varieties reaching close to a foot), and have life expectancies that rival many decades long. Some of the longest documented cases have been recorded by Chinese emperors, who have owned prized goldfish that lived over 40 years (sometimes outliving them!). The average lifespan, according to the Encyclopedia Brittanica, is 25 years in the wild, and I have seen firsthand or personally raised goldfish that exceeded 15 years easily in captivity. However, most goldfish lives are sadly shortened by well-meaning but misinformed owners, who kept them in bowls and believed they died of “natural causes” after a few short years.

Why are bowls all that bad, you may ask… my child won this fish at a fair or I bought it for a few cents as a feeder from a pet store, and I’m not looking to give it deluxe accommodations, for God’s sake! However, as pet owners, we should have a higher standard than just having our pets barely survive for a short period of time to decorate the coffee table or entertain a child for a few days. Our pets are living creatures that depend on us for an environment that will at least provide the minimum requirements to keep them healthy. A bowl for a goldfish does not, for several reasons:

1) Goldfish produce more ammonia than other fish per unit mass because they are relatively inefficient eaters. This is a toxic product of fish waste decay (you may have noticed that goldfish cloud water faster than many other species) that will quickly pollute Goldie’s bowl and even frequent water changes will not be able to keep up with this. Not only will these wastes poison your fish directly, but they will stress them over time, reducing their natural immunity and making them more susceptible to disease. Smaller containers are inevitably more difficult to maintain balance in over time, and get dirtier faster, compounding this problem even more.

2) As mentioned, all varieties of goldfish grow to over six inches as adults (I’ve personally seen black moors and lionheads the size of small koi!). Some disreputable fish stores will try to convince you that they have different size varieties, but in truth, what this comes down to is age grades, since most fish are sold as juveniles. Chances are, if you buy a small goldfish, it will be a juvenile (grown specimens cost big $$!). If you see a goldfish that has been living in a container for more than a few years and it is only 2”, it is severely stunted! All fish give off pheromones, which limit their own growth in a closed environment, an adaptation that helps partition off limited natural resources in the wild.

3) Goldfish are a coldwater species, and thus evolved to need more oxygen than tropical fish (more gases can dissolve in cold water than the same volume of warmer water). No bowl or small container will provide enough, even with an airstone!

4) Most bowls do not allow room for a filter or apparatus to circulate water. Thus, the “good” bacteria which promote proper cycling (read Filters, Part I for a full explanation) can’t really grow in a bowl to appreciable numbers, because they are mostly aerobic species. Toxins accumulate, making the situation, already bad, much worse.

For these reasons, without even going into ethics or swimming room arguments, THE ONE INCH OF FISH PER GALLON GUIDELINE THAT APPLIES TO SMALL TROPICAL FISH DOES NOT APPLY TO GOLDFISH. In fact, the consensus among many experienced goldfish owners is that they need a MINIMUM 10 gallons per fish. This is actually just a bare minimum for smaller specimens (juveniles to young-adults, mostly), and full-grown adults really should be given even more. This idea may sound shocking to many new to the hobby, some which may have even been told that “bowls are fine” by pet store employees, but please, don’t take my word for it, check one of the articles below:

Animal Soup’s “A Home for Your Goldfish”
A Tank Setup for Fish
Pet Library’s “The Goldfish Sanctuary”
PureGold’s Goldfish Care Pages

…or better yet, consult Aquarium Fish Magazine, any number of other hobbyist journals, or recently published books on goldfish.


Courtesy of Kimberly Lucas
This photo really does illustrate well their potential size in good conditions–and “Red” isn’t even close to full-grown, he’s only about 2 or 3 years old!
Measuring tape shown with 2″ mark anchored at left corner; fish is a bit angled with respect to the camera and may actually be slightly bigger than he appears here.

In my opinion, the myth that goldfish can do just fine in bowls is perpetuated by a number of factors:

1) Goldfish, especially the “common” varieties, are a hardy species, living through a lot of very bad conditions without going belly up. Just because they can live through it in the short term, however, does not mean that they are thriving or healthy… after all, fish can’t talk to us, so sometimes the first sign of illness is already too late. In addition, most people think that a lifespan of 2-3 years sounds normal for a fish, and don’t become suspicious of anything except natural death when their goldfish dies.

2) Goldfish are the oldest bred ornamental fish. They were around long before any serious research was done into fish biology or ecology, although the royal elite in Asia prized them a great deal and went to lengths to care for them in large outdoor ponds.

3) Goldfish are one of the cheapest fish available at the store, and it is easy to purchase a feeder for a dime. Monetary value, however, is no excuse to me for mistreating a living creature. I also don’t buy the “I saved it from certain death as a feeder” excuse… predation is a natural way of limiting population growth and usually humane; a drawn-out death from slow poisoning, overcrowding and stress is not. If you are going to keep a pet and bring it into your home, do it right, and be prepared to provide it with a life worth living.

4) Not all pet stores are full of conscientious or well-informed staff. It’s often much easier to make a quick sale of a bowl kit, which is cheaper and more accessible, than spend time explaining the more costly sale of a whole tank setup, sitting down with the potential customer to patiently teach water chemistry principles. Goldfish bowls often target impulse shoppers who just want something pretty to entertain themselves with.

This being said, I hope I’ve changed your mind about that seemingly harmless little goldfish bowl setup. About the only fish suitable for keeping in a bowl is the betta, or Siamese fighting fish, which can breathe air directly by way of a structure called a labyrinth. Even then, a bowl as a home is a stretch, because bettas (unlike goldfish) are tropical (need to be kept at a nonfluctuating temperature above 74F) and need to be given good water quality to live well (more difficult to maintain, the smaller the environment).

If you already have a bowl, it is not too late to purchase a cheap tank setup and give your pet the room it deserves… it may just surprise you when Goldie doubles in size in a few months.

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Nov 24 2007

Goldfish Care - Swim Bladder Disease

Published by Jill Florio under Goldfish

A reader asks what to do for a goldfish with swim bladder problems, and when to start feeding live foods.

Hello!
You are my last resort. I don’t know what to do for my fish, Doree. I believe she has a swim bladder issue. She has issues swimming right, raising up and down in her tank. She acts like she has control issues when she swims and can’t even swim in a straight line… she constantly flips herself over in the water. She even lays perpendicular to the bottom of her tank, with face in the gravel. She is in a 10 gallon tank. She has been doing this now for about 2 months, and it has gotten progressively worse. I have tried feeding her peas and not feeding her for a few days. After finding your site, I am going to take your advice and not feed her for about 5-7, then try something live. What live food do you recommend? I just want my fish to be well and am at wits ends. I will be going Friday to have her water tested. I moved in the last month, so maybe her water is not balanced or something.

Any advice you can offer would be welcomed at this point in time. I just don’t know what to do, and am tired of people making fun of her inability to swim right.

Concerend Fancy Fish Owner,
Doree the ’sick’ goldfish and her Mom

Hi Doree’s Mom! It sounds like your goldfish is lucky - most fancy goldies with swim bladder problems don’t last that long, and yours seemed to adapt to a bad sitation. Fancy goldfish are much more delicate than the common goldfish varieties and often get in trouble with their swim bladders and digestive tracts.

You will have to NOT FEED your goldfish for a whole week - or longer - and only start with live food after she regains some mobility. Not feeding is very difficult, but you have to be cruel here, to be kind. Stuffing more food into the intestinal blockage only makes things worse.

Tubifex worms are very good foods to offer live, when you do feed Doree again. Just take it easy with the feeding. She might need live food permanently, since once a fish has a serious swim bladder problem, it’s usually going to be chronic. So treat her like a “special needs” fish. The peas are a good supplement, but stay away from flakes.

Another thing that would make a big difference is making sure she has really, really clean water. You can never do too many partial changes, especially with goldfish, who are HUGE ammonia producers. So change the filter often, vacuum the gravel a lot, and try adding a dash of aquarium salt to the water - follow the directions on the box for your amount. Your fish needs the best environment possible to focus on healing right now.

You’re a good mom for writing and for caring. I recommend you go say hello to everyone in the Fish Forum and get some support! It’s a great bunch of fish folks who always have warm, helpful comments. And don’t let people make fun of your poor fishie - she’s trying hard to survive. What a trooper! :)
Good luck and see you on the forum!
Jilly


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Nov 24 2007

Goldfish Care Supplies

Published by Jill Florio under Goldfish

Hikari Specialty Goldfish Foods
Hikari Specialty Goldfish Foods

A range of daily diets for goldfish to provide outstanding nutrition at all life stages.

HBH Goldfish Nuggets
HBH Goldfish Nuggets

A highly nutritious sinking pellet. Contains essential vitamins for health, growth, and disease resistance.

Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Goldfish Fungus Cure
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Goldfish Fungus Cure

Treats fungal infections on goldfish and adds a protective slime coating to help heal and prevent secondary infection.

Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Goldfish Water Conditioner
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Goldfish Water Conditioner

Goldish Water Conditioner contains Aloe Vera to replace the natural slime coating of fish. It also makes tap water safe for fish by removing deadly chlorine and heavy metals.

Nutrafin Max Goldfish Pellet Mix
Nutrafin Max Goldfish Pellet Mix

A mixture of Green Basic and Color Enhancing Pellets for goldfish, koi and other coldwater fish.

Wardley Goldfish Pellets
Wardley Goldfish Pellets

Wardley Goldfish Pellets are formulated using the latest advances in biotechnology to provide your goldfish with superior nutrition and brilliant coloration.

Wardley Total Goldfish
Wardley Total Goldfish

Formulated with natural ingredients to bring out the vibrant colors of your goldfish. Also contains stabilized vitamin C and natural attractants.

Top Fin Goldfish Variety
Top Fin Goldfish Variety

Floating pellets contain the right amounts of protein, fat, fiber and vitamins along with spirulina algae, wheat germ and vitamin C to stimulate growth and enhance coloration.

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Nov 24 2007

Swim Bladder Problems in Goldfish

Published by Jill Florio under Goldfish

A reader’s goldfish swims at the top and has a distended abdomen. My advice follows.

Hi Jill,
I brought a Bio-orb fish bowl in October and set it up according to manufacturers instructions, two goldfish, one at a time with a break of a month between them. Everything seemed fine until last weekend when one of the fish was very quiet and was swimming with its fin down. The following morning this fish had died. I returned to the shop and had the water tested for nitrates and this was fine. I also purchased a new filter and changed 33% of the tank water. As the water had tested fine the shop said it was probably one of those things and I purchased two more fish which I added to the bowl. All was fine until this morning when the second fish began to have problems. It appears to be having trouble not floating and keeps going to the surface of the water. It can stay down but only by swimming very hard, its abdomen appears to be a little bloated. What could this be and is there anything that can be done to 1) help this fish, and 2) prevent this happening to the other fish? The fish are all ornamental. I feed them with one pinch of fish food every morning. The bio-orb has a filter and light. They are not in direct sunlight but the house is quite warm. I hope you can help me with this problem.
Thanks, Pat

Hi Pat. It sounds like your fish are having indigestion and constipation, causing swim bladder problems. This is common in the fancy, orb-shaped goldfish. What kind of food are you feeding? They seem to be sensitive to it. Do not feed them food for 3-4 days. Nothing. Then, when they start swimming around, get them on a live food diet for a week. See your local fish store for live foods. Then, make sure that the next food you give them is a different type from your first offering. Perhaps moisten the pellets or flakes first. keep in mind that once a goldfish gets swim bladder issues, that they will probably crop up again. Fasting, then live foods are your best friends when this happens.

Also try feeding smaller amounts of food more often thru the day, instead of all at once in the morning. Do you ever add salt to your tank water? That is a good tonic, BTW.

What kind of filter are you using? This could be an aeration problem, but it really sounds more like swim bladder problems. Lastly, you did not mention how big your Bio-Orb is. If this is a bowl, or a smallish tank, then two (or is it three, I’m not sure from your letter) goldfish are not going to have a decent level of ammonia and nitrites for survival. Goldfish really need a tank of 5-10 gallons each, but 3.5 gallons each is passable.

Let me know how it goes and good luck!


Jill Florio

Related Articles
Diagnosing a Sick Goldfish
The Myth of Goldfish Bowls
Mixing Plecos and Other Tropicals with Goldfish”

Books on Fish Health Care:

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Nov 24 2007

Goldfish Care - Diagnosing a Sick Goldfish

Published by Jill Florio under Goldfish

A reader’s fish lays at the bottom of her tank. Is he dying? What you can immediately do, and a help in diagnosing the sick fish’s problem.

Help! My fish is sick. About 2 years ago I bought 4 goldfish (two were red caps and I don’t remember what the other two were) and put them in a 30 gallon tank. One died about a year ago and recently another died…so now I have two in the tank. Now one of them is not swimming very much and is laying on the bottom and I don’t know what to do. It does appear that his fins are not working well. Please help.
Jenny [name changed]

Hi Jenny. It’s hard to know what is wrong, and why your goldfish keep dying, from your description. 30 Gallons is okay for 2 or 3 small goldfish. How big are they? You don’t provide specifics like whether your filter is big enough for the growth they experienced since you bought them. Goldfish make a lot of ammonia, which is toxic when it builds up.

Also, I need some diagnostics - are they nipping at each other? Do they have little white spots, patches of fungus, ripped fins, body lumps, parasites, a dirty tank? Too much algae? Have your water temperatures been fluctuating? Maybe you turned the heat off for the weekend, and the water got so cold he turned torpid?

And how often are you changing the water - it could be too little OR to much, or even both (as in too little then followed by too much rapid change). Each tank is a unique ecosystem, so I need more clues to help you.

Sometimes a fish will rest on the bottom if he has indigestion from bad food, or constipation. Is his stomach distended? What are you feeding them?

The fish could also be pregnant or have a swim bladder problem - the first is not a problem, but the second one is.

Start with these tips:

  • First off, I would quarantine the sick one. Right away. Take water from the tank he is in (so you don’t shock him), put it in a decent-sized bowl or extra tank with a filter, and keep an eye on him. Also watch to see if your healthy guy is still okay.
  • Two, test the water. If you don’t have a kit, you can get one at a fish store, or Petsmart will do a quick water test for free, plus offer advice, whether or not you bring the sick fish in or not. Maybe your pH or nitrite levels are an issue. There are also remedies for sale if your little dude has a disease. Check at your pet store.
  • Next: if you think the fish is constipated, try starving him for a few days until he swims about actively again, then change his food to live or freeze-dried only for a week. Return him to his normal tank if he seems better, and watch him to ensure he doesn’t have any more problems.
  • Lastly, grab a good goldfish care book to learn more about their specific needs for the present and future. I really recommend Goldfish : An Owner’s Guide to a Happy Healthy Pet. That link will take you to the book at Amazon. The diagnosic section in the back of the book will help you out too.

By the time a goldfish gets sick, he’s probably really in a bad way, and it’s been building for a while - they are generally hardy enough to handle anything.

Please let me know how it goes! And good luck to the little dude - hang in there!


Jill Florio

Books on Fish Health Care:

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Nov 24 2007

Mixing Plecos with Goldfish

Published by Jill Florio under Goldfish

Many readers have asked about mixing goldfish with other fish species, especially plecostomos (plecos, or catfish). The answer is generally no. Here’s why.

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Don’t mix goldfish with other species, as a rule

To start with, interspecies agression is be common. Plus, goldfish like their water colder than tropical fish, and create massive amounts of ammonia all on their own - which is enough for most people to worry about keeping up with. Goldfish can also grow to be quite huge, given a large enough habitat to make them properly happy.

It’s possible to mix Plecos (Plecostomos plecostomos) with your goldfish, the types who can tolerate colder temps. Those are the mouth-sucker catfish, and if they actually leave the goldfishes alone, this is a decent combination. Personally, I have not had any problems with plecos, but I have heard horror stories, so it’s best to be very alert if you choose to add one to your goldie tank.

The The Goldfish : An Owner’s Guide to a Happy Healthy Pet warns that some plecos inexplicable develop a taste for sucking out fancy goldfish eyeballs.

Okay, yuck. They do say that this happens to the protruding eye fish, and that it’s mainly the coldwater catfish that do this. Catfish rasping the sides of goldfish bodies isn’t an appealing concept, either. Talk about harrassment! One reader writes:

Common “plecos” are not good choices for goldfish tanks. While some are not a problem, many tend to acquire a taste for the slime coat of goldfish for some odd reason. Because many of the fancy goldfish are not strong swimmers, a pleco may cause injury through continuous rasping of the side of the fish. Now this is on top of the fact that common plecos can easily attain sizes of 16″+ making them a very poor choice for a small aquarium.

A nasty image and not good for your goldfish if it happens.

To repeat, I have not had any problems with my plecos acting out these odd behaviors, but you’ll want to think carefully about adding one to your goldfish tank - and keep a close eye out, if you do! Please email me if you have any advice or stories to share on this controversial topic, or post them to the Fish Forum.


UPDATE - A reader Responds

“What particular Loricariidae species are you calling a wall-sucker catfish? The problem with “plecos” is the fact that they are particularly hard to identify. True or Common Plecos are Hypostomus plecostomus. Sailfin Plecos are closely related and are Glyptoperichthys gibbiceps. Most people can’t tell the difference and many times they are marketed either way. Even worse is the fact that because of the great number of Loricariidae (armored sucker mouth catfish), most individuals simply can’t identify them properly nor can the fish stores. Many times the only way to properly identify them is by knowing exactly what region they were imported from. There are such a great number of similar species that they in fact that many have no species name, only a number to identify them (such as the L037).

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